Method of making shoes.



C. C. BLAKE:

METHOD OF mmuwe SHOES. APPLICATION FILED OCT. 20.1915.

Patented Nov, 12, 1918.

C. C. BLAKE.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

APPLICA lUN FILED OCT. 20. 1915 1 ,28%,@63= Patented Nov. 12, 1918 2 SHEETSSHEET 2.

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Ll.. -ilii or snoonrrnn, iunssilc HUSETTS, ASSIGNOR T0 C. (3'. BLAKE, INCOR- METHOD ()3? MAKING SHOES.

Specification of letters Patent.

Paicnied Nov. 12, 1 .91%.

Original application filed August 15, 1913. Serial No 785.142. Divided and this application filed Gcchbcr 20,

1515. Scria11l0.56,975. 3

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, Cl-IARLES C. BLAKE. c. citizen of lhe United States. rcsulingat Brooklinc. in the county of Norfolk and State of Mnssuchusel'i's. lnnc invcnl'cd 21 new and useful improvement in iilclhods of Mulcing' Shoes, of which the following); is a specilicution.

The present invention relates in methods of oonnccl'ine; members iogeihor such, for instance. as the shoe upper. welt and insolc of a well: shoe.

Such insoles are usually prepared for the sewing operation, than; is. the operation oi securing the shoe upper. well and insole lo g'elhcr, from n sole-shaped hlunlc by splitting it along its edge uround ihc shank and iorcpnrt to form il lip and a leather or by splitting its edge and uho cutting one lizico of the bhiuk within the edge ciu thereby forming n ilup parallel to {he lip, 'lhc lip or lip and limp ui'c lurned up al right angles 30 the cut: face of the blank lo form u margi- Zlzil abutment the base of which receives the stitches during the sewing operation. After the sewing and insczun trimming operations The cavity bounded the niziginzil zibutmcnc hereinbeioro referred i0 is filled with ground cork mixed with n suitable hinder: This construction permits the shoes to be exhibited to the trade with the lorcpurt of lhe insoles in a flat condition. As soon, however us these shoes are worn the c i'k filler becomes displaced in llic space hexlwecn the inner and outer soles resulting in the Forumlion of ii con a c trough in the part oi. the insole. The iormuiion oi u, trougn in forcpuruoi the insole is 21. source of great discomfort and injury to i'eci.

1 propose to prevcn the {OlillllllOll oilhis objectionable trough in the iorepuri oi i hc insole ly eliminating the necessity ihc formation of marginal abutment to rceeive theinscom stitches and consequently inc need of using a filler between the inner and outer soles i0 fill the cavity bounded by the marginal zdiutmcnt. As a substitute for the marginal abutment to hold the inseam stitches I. employ tongues formed in one face of the insole over which the thread connecting the well), upper and insole of u welt shoe or the sole and upper of a tum shoe is looped. It has been proposed heretofore to employ tongues to hold the stitches in both well; and turn shoes. but the construction of the iongucs 21nd the methods employed for their formation have been found impracticable.

The method employed in forming the tongues for holding the stitches in turn shoes consisted in providing ii sewing machine with u f-shaped chisel which cuts a V-shaped incision in the face of the sole thus forming :1 tapering V-shaped tongue integral therewith over which the thread connecting the upper and sole looped. This method was found impracticable, however, as it proved to be impossible for the operative to hold the shoe in his hand and swing and tip the shoe at the proper time and to the proper extent so that the chisel would uniformly penetrate the solo at the correct angle and depcln It was found that any deviation inlhe angle or deplih of cut seriously affected the sizeor position of the tongues which prevented the sewing instrumcntalities from properly handling the thread and setting it in position over the tongues. As these tongues also taper in width and thickness throughout their length it was found impossible to properly set the thread in position thereovcr, even when correctly formed, as the tension with which the stitch was set caused the tapered tongue to buckle and thus permit the thread to slip therefrom.

F or welt work'it was proposed to first channel the insole and then slit the channel flap transversely into short sections, ihe alaernnlte ones of which were used as tongues. /Vhile by this method tongues werc'formed having 21 uniform Width throughout their length this method also proved to be impracticnbl as it involved a. separate channeling operation and it produced tongues upe'ring in iliickness which in "Elle same manner as the if-shziped tongues permitted the tongue connected whereby the stitches may be held in a reliable and satisfactory manner.

- To the accomplishment of this object and such others as may hereinafter appear the features of the invention relate to certain methods of manufacture hereinafter described and then set forth broadly and in detail in the appended claims which possess advantages readily apparent to those skilled in the art.

While the invention may be utilized to connect various components of an article to: gether, I have selected an insole and the manner of its connection with the shoe upper and welt of a welt shoe for the purpose'of illustration as it shows the invention in its best form at present devised.

The various features of the present invention will be readily understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings, in which,

Figure 1 is a plan of an insole provided with a series of furcular slashes along the peripheral margin of one face;

Fig. 2 is a detail elevation, partly in section, showing the manner in which the furcular slashes are formed in the insole;

Fig. 3 is a perspective of the gouge employed to slash the insole;

Fig. 4: is a detail plan showing the awl penetrating the edge of the insole, intersecting the slash below the surface of the insole, and separating the tongue bounded by the tines of the fork, the face of the insole and the awl cut, from the body portion of the insole;

Fig. 5 is a detail sectional elevation of the parts illustrated in Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a sectional elevation similar to Fig. 5 showing the awl withdrawn;

Fig. 7 is a detail plan showing the passing of the thread through the welt, upper and insole by means of a needle;

Fig. 8 is a perspective, partly in section, showing the operation of the needle which enters the work in the split of the welt and emerges from the face of the sole through the stem of the furcular slash;

Figs. 9, 10 and 11 are elevations, partly in section, showing various positions of the looper in looping the thread over the tongue and subjecting the tongue to pressure; and

Fig. 12 is a'perspective, partly in section, of the finished shoe embodying the features of the present invention.

In the illustrated embodiment of the in vention an insole 1 is provided with a series of furcular slashes 2 which are formed normal to one face of the insole along the peripheral margin thereof. These furcular slashes may have any forked construction either with or without a stem, as may be found desirable or expedient. That is, they pay take the ,form shown at A, or B, or C, F 1g. 1). It is preferred, however, to emshown at C which tines 4, and The insole is also provided with a series of awl'cuts 6,

(Fig. 6) each one of which extends parallel to the slashed face of the insole from the edge of the insole to one of the slashes which it intersects below the surface of the insole thus separating the material of the insole bounded by the tines 4: of the fork from the body portion of the insole and forming a tongue 7, (Figs. 5, 6 and 7) integral therewith. As the furcular slashes and awl cuts are formed normal to the face and edge of the insole respectively the sides of the tongues are perpendicular to the face of the insole and the top and bottom faces of the tongues are parallel. This construction produces a tongue substantially uniform in width and thickness throughout its length thus insuringa substantial piece of stock to hold the stitches. With this construction all danger of the tongue buckling so that it can be pulled back into the awl cut when the stitch is being set thus permitting the thread to slip flvl'll the tongue is obviated.

With the insole thus prepared it may be connected to a shoe upper and welt in any suitable manner found desirable or expedient. Preferably a shoe upper 8 is first lasted to the edge face of the insole and then the welt or a. reinforcing strip is assembled with the lasted shoe. The upper is thus interposed between the insole and welt with its edge substantially flush with the tread or bottom faces of the insole and welt. Furthermore, the contacting faces of the welt and upper and of the upper and insole are arranged in parallel planes normal to the exposed face of the insole. The upper, insole and welt are connected together by a thread 10 which extends pro-- gressively along a longitudinal slit 11, firmed in the welt 9, through the welt, upper and insole, over the tongue 7, and back through the insole, upper and welt to the slit therein. As shown in Fig. 6 the slit 11 in the welt is formed in the same plane as the bottoms of the tongues in the insole.

While in its broader aspects the invention contemplates preparing the insole with tongues prior to the sewing operation, it is preferred to form the tongues in the ma chine which connects the shoe upper, welt and insole together. To this end the machine is provided with a gouge 12, (Figs. 2 and 3) arranged to reciprocate at right angles to the face of the insole and provided with two cutting edges one of which, the edge 13, forms the stem ofthe furcular slash and the other one of which, the edge 14, forms the fork and its two tines. .In order to limit the depth of the slash the gouge carries a block 15 which strikes intersecting a slash below the surface of the insole and freeing the tongue bounded by the tines of the slash, the face of the sole to form a cut intersecting the gougeslash below the surface of the insole and free the tongue formed by the gouge from the body portion of the insole; and passing a thread through the awl hole in the welt, upper, and insole and over the tongue, substantially as described.

4. That improvement in the art of securing a shoe upper, its insole and welt together, which consists in cutting a series of furcular slashes in the peripheral margin of one face of the insole, the depth of said slashes being limited by a depth gage; awling through the Welt, upper and insole to intersect the furcular slashes below the surface of the insole and free the tongues formed by the tines of the slashes from the body portion of the insole; passing a thread through the awl holes; and looping the thread over the tongues, substantially as described. y

5. That improvement in the art of preparing soles for the inseaming operationwhich consists in slashing the face of the sole, and intersecting the slash in the sole below the surface thereof by a second cut normal to the first cut, substantially as described. p

6. That improvement in the art of preparing soles for the inseaming operation which consists in cutting a series of furcular slashes inthe face of the sole and separating the material bounded by the tines of the slashes from the body portion of the sole by a series of cuts below the surface of the sole and normal to the edge thereof, substantially as described.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in assembling an insole, an upper and a welt with the bottom faces of the welt and'insole and free edge of the upper substantially flush; forming tongues in the bottom face of the insole; passing a thread through the welt, upper and insole; and looping the thread over the tongues, substantially as described.

8. That improvement in the art of preparing soles for the inseaming operation which consists in forming in a step by step manner a series of pairs of intersecting slashes near the margin of the sole, the slashes forming a pair being arranged norinsole.

mal to the face and edge of the sole respectively, substantially as described.

9. That improvement inthe art of male ing welt shoes which consists, in slitting a welt longitudinally along one edge; assembling the welt with a lasted shoe comprising an insole and an uppersecured to the edge face thereof; forming tongues in the bottom face of the insole; passing a thread through the. welt, upper and insole; and looping the thread over the tongues, substantially as described.

10. That improvement in the art of preparing soles for the inseaming operation which consists informing a series of stitchand' thickness substantially throughout theirlength along the'margin of one face of the anchoring tongues uniform in widt with a lasted shoe comprising an insole and an upper secured to the edge'face thereof and with the unslit edge 'of the welt, the opposite faces of the marginal portion of the upper and I parallel planes normal'to the face of the insole, and passing a thread along the slit in the welt and through'the welt, upper 13. That improvement in the art of making welt shoes which consists in assembling a welt with a lasted shoe comprising an .insole and an upper secured to the edge face thereof with the contacting faces of the we'lt and upper and of the upper and insole, in

parallel planes normal to the face of the in-.

sole, and uniting the welt, insole and upper.

14:. That i'mpr'ov ment in the art ofmakconsists in securing an ing welt shoes whi upper in lasted'position to the edge face of an insole, and then securing a welt to the united upper "and insole by means other than the means, for uniting the upper and insole. T G

15. That improvement in the art of making welt shoes which consists in securing an upper in'lasted position to the edge face of an insole and then securing a welt slitlongitudinally along the edge face of the welt which is exposed in the finished shoe by stitches anchored in the base of the slit in the welt and also in the insole. 16. That improvement in the art of mak ing welt shoes which consists in securing an upper in lasted position to the edge face of edge face of the insole in.

and

menses an insole, assembling a welt and the lasted upper in lasted position to an insole and a shoe with the welt arranged entirely outside welt to the lasted shoe by means that perthe peripheral edge of the insole, and unitforms its securing function by engagement 10 ing the Welt in its assembled position to the both with the edge face of the insole and 5 lasted shoe. that portion of the upper engaged with the 17. That improvement in the art of makedge face of the insole. ing Welt shoes which consists in securing an CHARLES C. BLAKE. 

